Hemmerle is a fourth generation family run house at the vanguard of jewellery design. Each jewel conceived is unique and as original as a work of art. Today, Stefan and Sylveli Hemmerle run the business with their son, Christian, and daughter-in-law, Yasmin. Hemmerle remains renowned for its dedication to craftsmanship, exceptional quality, innovative material combinations, and bold, unostentatious creations.
In Munich, brothers Joseph and Anton Hemmerle take over an established goldsmiths’ company specialising in medals and orders, whose clients include the Bavarian Royal family. The brothers bring their own style and ideas to the business, renamed Hemmerle,
exploring materials and refining craftsmanship.
Known for its craftsmanship
since 1893, Hemmerle produces
only one-of-a-kind pieces.
International Herald Tribune
Hemmerle is appointed 'Purveyor to the
Court' by Luitpold, Prince Regent of Bavaria.
They become renowned for the 'bejewelled
fantasies' they create for Ludwig III of Bavaria,
the Bavarian government and the great
families of the German nobility.
design of a pendent
design of a trophy
The Paris Exposition Universelle marks the high point of Art Nouveau, or Jugendstil as the style is known in Germany. Hemmerle, fast gaining a reputation and gathering awards, participate at the Exposition, and win a coveted prize for the Bishop’s Cross in enamel and gemstones that highlights their display.
Hemmerle opens a boutique on Maximilianstrasse, Munich’s imposing and fashionable shopping boulevard. The boutique broadens its scope to include silver, military ornaments and antique jewellery. Hemmerle remains at the same premises today.
Munich’s family-run jeweller
has been in the same store for over
100 years, and it’s still innovating.
Financial Times How to Spend it
Hemmerle began making the Bavarian
Maximiliansorden which they still
make to this day. First established
by King Maximilian II of Bavaria,
they are awarded to acknowledge
outstanding achievements in
science and art. The order is
restricted to 100 living members
at any one time.
Joseph and Anton’s sons, Joseph Jr. and Carl
Hemmerle join the firm after World War I.
Carl Hemmerle now takes control
of the business.
The boutique on Maximilianstrasse is renovated by Carl Hemmerle and his wife Lore.
The next generation makes its mark, as
Stefan and Franz Hemmerle take over.
Stefan has trained as a goldsmith in
Munich, before working with jewellers in
France, Italy and Denmark, nurturing new
ideas and his individual style. At a time of
social and cultural change, with a new
approach to luxury and fine jewellery,
Stefan, immersed in Hemmerle’s rich and
noble heritage, understands jewellery
conventions, craftsmanship and traditions
well enough to begin to change them.
To mark the 100th Anniversary, Stefan creates a striking
Bavarian Lion composed of yellow gold and over 2,000 brown,
green, orange and canary-yellow diamonds with yellow-brown
sapphires forming the lion’s back. The setting of the diamonds,
mixed with their natural colour, makes for a subtle and scintillating
texturebrought to life by the design. A party is hosted in Berlin
to show the brooch and celebrate the anniversary.
Stefan Hemmerle and his wife Sylveli, decide the
time is right to break with the past and transform
the jewel into a true contemporary work of art.
While honouring family heritage, respecting
jewellery traditions and revering age-old
craftsmanship, Stefan and Sylveli, take sole control
of the business and conjure an avant-garde aesthetic
of powerfully audacious modernity, layered with
cultural references, to art, architecture and
artisanship. The creative concept generated by this
philosophy is sparked by a commission from a
client, an art collector who ‘detested flashy gems.’
She wears examples of early 19th century Berlin iron
jewellery: neo-classical, architectural cast iron
ornaments worn by patriotic Germans in place of
gold, which they donated to the War effort during
the War of Liberation, 1813-15. With this in mind,
Stefan Hemmerle decides to set an important
diamond in a ring of textured iron.
It’s not every client request that
inspires a designer to branch off
into a direction he never before
imagined and subsequently
to develop an entirely new style
in doing so.
Hemmerle participate in Tefaf Basel, an art
and antiques fair held at the Messe Basel that
ran for 4 years. Hemmerle show work at Palm Beach,
a jewellery, art and antiques fair in Florida. They
continue to exhibit at the fair for 5 years.
Barrier-breaking design introduces a whole new aesthetic for
Hemmerle, blazing a trail of design-driven, agelessly modernist art
jewels balancing powerful simplicity and splendour. Signatures now
include daring combinations of colours and textures and the use of
the rarest, most intriguing precious stones, set in unexpected
materials, such as iron and wood. Totally new to the world of fine
jewellery, and perfectly pitched in the minimalist mood of the 90s,
the concept heralds a new era for Hemmerle.
It was not my intention to shock,
though I did want to inspire.
Hemmerle revives an early 19th century,
near-extinct Austrian technique of
woven, knitted, precious gem beads.
Each bead is hand-hewn and carved,
hand-drilled, impeccably matched for
colour, and often carefully calibrated and
graduated to achieve a silky gem-mesh
knitted in the round, on silk, for bangles
or long necklaces, often hung with a
signature Hemmerle tassel. This labour-
and time-intensive process reflects the
pursuit of artisanal excellence.
Century-old German jewellery house Hemmerle is a staunch defender of the craftsman’s trade.
As the unique Hemmerle aesthetic evolves and
strengthens, the Maximilianstrasse boutique
is redesigned by Sylveli Hemmerle alongside
celebrated Dutch designer and architect,
Tom Postma, renowned for his cultural projects,
museums and exhibitions, including 2006 Art Basel
Miami Beach Fair and the Jordan National Gallery.
A town house in the heart of Munich is renovated as the atelier expands to house 15 dedicated goldsmiths. All jewellery is made onsite and nothing is outsourced. Every piece is hand-crafted and entirely bespoke. It is not unusual for 500 or more hours to be spent on the making of a single Hemmerle jewel.
A new fair, Cultura, the World Art
and Antiques Fair, is organised in
Basel by a group of dealers including
Stefan Hemmerle. Hemmerle participate
in the fair which ran for five years.
Art of Nature is published to celebrate a collection
of one-of-a-kind jewels and objets d’art inspired by the
natural world. The illustrated book showcases Hemmerle’s
vibrant interpretations of animals, insects, birds and plants,
made over some 18 years, from 1979-1996.
The kingdom of nature
has been beautifully
conquered by Hemmerle.
Author of "Extraordinary Jewels"
Hemmerle’s tarantula brooch was included in the
touring exhibition Pearls. It traveled from 2001 to 2008
to New York, Chicago, Atlanta, Houston, Midland, Toronto,
Milwaaukee, Tokyo, Sydney, Abu Dhabi and Paris.
The characteristic Hemmerle element of subtle surprise emerged again in the form of charming, characterful brooches depicting different, lifelike species of mushrooms, exquisitely modelled and capturing earthy woodland tones and textures.
Every once in a while, a designer comes
along who, fully aware of what has come
before, turns a totally new page.
Christian and Yasmin Hemmerle, Stefan and Sylveli’s son and daughter-in-law join Hemmerle. By now, Hemmerle’s distinctive design ethos has become the ultimate understatement of sophisticated preciousness. The continual search for the most intriguing gemstones, both old and new, is crucial and the globe is scoured treasure hunting for materials. A visual vocabulary continues to evolve: geometric silhouettes of rectangular cut gems or oval cabochons, mismatched earrings, wide curved armour-like cuffs, heavy curb chains, luxuriant tassels earrings.
One minute, they might set a large,
cut aquamarine of an Aryam blue
into an iron bangle of fierce
single-mindedness, the next twist
hundreds of tiny, polished carnelian
beads into a bejewelled rope.
Die Neue Sammlung, the State Museum of Applied Arts and Design in Munich staged Myths: Jewels Today – Seen by Stefan Hemmerle, a three-month exhibition showcasing 145 Hemmerle jewels. A book is published to coincide with the exhibition.
A craftsmanship that exhibits
Die Neue Sammlung
Architect Tom Postma receives the 2007 Red Dot
Design Award for Best Exhibition, for his design of
Myths: Jewels Today –Seen by Stefan Hemmerle:
a black box filled with gently moving backlit water
that shimmers like moonlight.
Hemmerle’s gecko brooch was included in
The Nature of Diamonds, a travelling
exhibition from 2008 – 2010 organised
by the American Museum of Natural
History, New York, in collaboration with
The Field Museum, Chicago, the Royal
Ontario Museum, Toronto, and the
Houston Museum of Natural Science.
Hemmerle is honoured when the Harmony Bangle is chosen to become part of the permanent collection of the William and Judith Bollinger Jewellery Gallery at London’s Victoria and Albert Museum.
Hemmerle have brought
a distinctive and highly
original voice to jewellery
of the highest calibre.
Curator, Victoria & Albert Museum
Hemmerle’s tarantula brooch, a pair of melo-pearl earrings
and a melo-pearl brooch were featured in The Pearl Exhibition,
a show of rare pearls and jewellery at the Museum of Islamic Art,
Doha, Qatar, from January to June 2010.
This collection is about seeing beauty where most people just see the ordinary details of daily life.
Christian and Yasmin Hemmerle surprise Stefan with a vegetable-inspired collection of jewellery. To celebrate, Delicious Jewels is published, a book that introduces the jewels along with recipes by celebrated food writer and author Tamasin Day-Lewis.
Hemmerle’s snake bracelets are included in
Serpentina: The Snake in Jewellery Around the World,
an exhibition at Pforzheim’s Jewellery Museum
from November 2011 to February 2012.
Hemmerle participate for the 15th year at TEFAF Maastricht,
the world’s most important art and antiques fair,
as the fair celebrates its Silver Jubilee.
The world’s most admired
art and antiques fair.
The Art Newspaper
Hemmerle participate for the first time
at Masterpiece, London’s highly-acclaimed
art and antiques fair, and launch Egyptian
inspired jewellery at the fair.
There is something
for every taste at the event.
Three pairs of Hemmerle earrings created using melo-pearls and the Tarantula brooch are included in Pearls, an exhibition at London’s Victoria and Albert Museum from September 2013 – January 2014.
A nature-inspired collection of 16 pieces of jewellery is launched at TEFAF Maastricht in March. An accompanying book Nature’s Jewels pairs the jewels with poetry from around the world selected by Greta Bellamacina and published by MACK.
Our own philosophy resonates with poetry - originality, beauty, boldness, creativity, and technical understanding also go into making a Hemmerle jewel.
An exquisitely curvaceous Harmony Bangle inspired by Egypt and crafted in exotic pock wood with turquoises and tsavorite garnets capping the ends joined the permanent collection of the Cooper Hewitt, Smithsonian Design Museum.
Hemmerle is refreshing both visually and philosophically – with timeless pieces held in institutions from New York’s Cooper Hewitt to London’s Victoria & Albert, they are sustaining the recognition they deserve.
Olivia Singer, Under the InfluenceLink To Article
Beauty – Cooper Hewitt Design Triennial, from February 12th – August 21st 2016, celebrates design and expands the discourse around the power of aesthetic innovation. A display of over 10 jewels demonstrates Hemmerle’s strong visual identity developed over decades. Works inspired by nature including a eucalyptus brooch, snail brooches and bee earrings are exquisitely modelled with a hint of realism. A dedication to colour is seen in earrings made from bright orange and pink sapphires, a purple garnet Harmony bangle and a vibrant orange topaz ring. Found materials like cameos and carved jade are worked into contemporary designs and show that materials can drive creativity.
The [AL] Project explores the unique properties of aluminium through innovative design and exquisite craftsmanship. The collection consisting of 16 pairs of earrings and a brooch is launched at TEFAF Maastricht in March.
Aluminium’s natural qualities provided the perfect opportunity for us to experiment with the metal and celebrate its past splendour.
Presented at TEFAF Maastricht this year is a new exhibition-stand featuring a sculptural structure designed by the Dutch architect Tom Postma in collaboration with Hemmerle.
Uniting ambitious design with sophisticated engineering, the interlocking architectural structure combines bold form with surprising function.
Composed from 16 individual screens made up of American walnut-wood rods, each individually crafted and connected to uniquely engineered aluminium rods, the multi-layered screens of the design appear to float and defy the rules of gravity.
It is the discerning eye of a sophisticated collector that will
appreciate the exceptional craftsmanship of Hemmerle whose jewels
will definitely become the antiques of the future.
Author, Curator and Jewellery Advisor